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journal part 8

:: The Inca Trail

Well, finally, one of my dreams was about to become true : do the Incatrail and visit Machu Picchu. I don't think I really have to explain somebody what Machu Picchu is ...

We took the bus from Cuzco and had a brief stop in Ollabtaytambo. Another old Inca stronghold and really nice. Then we moved further towards km 88 : the beginning of the Inca trail !

Day 1 : from km 88 (+2700m) to Huayllabamba (+3000m) +- 6km / 3h
We were in a group with the 3 of us, 3 German lads and an English couple Harry and Marc a.k.a Neill Finn and our guide. Then there were also the 'carriers'. Young lads who take the tents, cooking gear and food. They run (yes run) in front of you, set up tents and everything and cook. So when you arrive, it's all sorted for you, you just have to eat and sleep. They actually eat the leftovers. Some also carry the backpacks of the tourists. It's amazing, as we have proper trekking boots, they just walk on sandals or slippers ! I have the most respect for these lads. They work their balls off and after finishing one trip, they start off the next one, sometimes straight away.

I had a walking stick with me, my friends did not find that necessair. I have to say it is very very usefull and especially if someone else in the group thinks the same and is happy to use it. We also carried our own backpacks, filled up to 12 kilos as we heard it might be rainy and you might want to have some dry clothes

That first day was nice, we passed some sites where people still live in very basic conditions. The tracks were not to bad and it was amazing to imagine this you were walking on one of the roads of the ancient Inca network.

Day 2 : from Huayllabamba (+3000m) to Pacaymayo (+3600m) +- 13km / 7,5h
This day was supposed to be a bitch. First thing in the morning was to tackle a mountain top of +4200m. Well, yes that took all the morning. At least. But it was beautifull, the views of the mountains and valleys are truely amazing. Sometimes we passed some old site, we walked through little forests. It was great ! It was also great to have had all these marsbars. We bought lots of them for on the way, like water. Something you really need as well.

After finally getting to the top of Huarmiwanusca (pass of the dead woman) which felt like an enormous achievement, we had to go down 600m, but that went much much quicker. The views from the site we were staying that night was ... was ... well, no words. So amazing ! One of the best views of the trail from my point of view. Everywhere you looked around you it was awesome ! But in front there was a valley with behind it snowwhite tops of the Andes. And the way the clouds were formed, there wer like 2 layers, one for the valley and one above the mountains. Truely one of the best views I've ever seen. Wanna see a picture of it ?... Well, take a look inot my head, I have it here forever ...

Day 3 : from Pacaymayo (+3600m) to Winhahuayna (+3100m) +- 12km / 6,5h
After another early wake up at 6 am we had to climb 400m. It was like we were in a big chain, because all the groups left around the same time. We passed a nice ruin and 2 lagunas (lakes). These ones were quite sacred, ones this young lad slept there and found himself on another place as he woke up. I remember this old 'carrier' going up with this huge bag on his back. It must have been 50 kilos, lots more than allowed. Pour man... And offering him some water is some kind of a relief.

We passed the beautifull ruin of Phuyupatamarca which was based on a cliff. We had quite a lot of questions and after leaving this place it felt really great, because we were the last group of the day. I was walking with Neill (Marc) through the 'snowy forest', discussing football and philosophy. Yes, these subjects are quite attached you female readers. It felt like we were alone in this beautifull place. After some lunch at another site we were about to go down 700m to the Machu Picchu resort. We could see people walking, but all you could see was silhouttes. It was like watching the old Incas themselves. We were quite lucky throughout this trip, because only at this descend it was really pissing down.

After changing some clothes we got ourselves a well deserved beer. And another one ... We also collected some money for the carriers. We did not count our pennies, we thought they deserved to be well payed. If it was not for them, we couldn't have had this great trip as we've done it. Well done lads ! I just think that our German friends need a beer to loose their feers of talking to strangers. Well strangers ? I think after 3 days together you're not so strange to each other anymore. But it was cool and we had a great night altogether.

But it was not finished yet ofcourse. As we were looking out at the view outside on the veranda we could hear and see the rivers finding its way around the mountain slopes. There was no sign of Machu Picchu, altough we knew it was somewhere around the corner. This must be one of the reasons why it was well hidden for all the centuries. We couldn't wait to finally see it ourselves !

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Journal Shortcuts

 0 :: Amsterdam
Peru ::
 1 :: Lima
 2 :: Pisco ..
 3 :: .. Huacachina
 4 :: Nazca
 5 :: Arequipa
 6 :: Colca Canyon
 7 :: Cuzco
 8 :: Inca trail
 9 :: Machu Picchu
10 :: Cuzco
11 :: Floating Isl .
Bolivia ::
12 :: Isla del Sol
13 :: La Paz
14 :: Tihuanaca
15 :: Cochabamba
16 :: Sucre
17 :: Potosi
18 :: Tupiza
19 :: Salar d Uyuni
20 :: Oruro
21 :: Deathroad
22 :: La Paz
23 :: Jungle tour
24 :: La Paz
25 :: Sorata
----- ::
26 :: Aftermath
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